Rock and Sea: Sport Climbing on the isle of Anafi
- Louis Kennedy
- Dec 7
- 5 min read
Updated: Dec 10
Tucked away in the Aegean Sea in Greece and just east of the well-known party island of Santorini, the Isle of Anafi offers a striking contrast. Quiet, remote, and largely untouched by the mass tourism assosiated with Santorini, it’s known for peaceful getaways, scenic hiking trails, and tranquil beaches — making it a haven for those looking to escape the typical holiday crowds. The island is also famous for its connection to the famous myth of Jason and the Argonauts.
According to the myth, as the Argonauts were returning with the golden fleece, they were caught in a storm. In desperation, they prayed to the god Apollo for deliverance and in response, Apollo caused the island of Anafi to rise from the sea; guiding them to safety. The island was named Anafi, derived from the Greek verb meaning “to bring to light”. In gratitude, the Argonauts built an altar to Apollo on top of Mount Kalamos; which is where the beautiful Orthdox church now sits.
One of the most striking parts of the Anafi experience is the contrast between the serious nature of the climbing and the laid-back atmosphere of the island itself. Our days were long and fairly demanding — working hard in the sun, drilling, gluing, and climbing pitch after pitch on a cliff that feels genuinely committing. Then, just a few hours later, we’d be back in town, eating fresh Greek food at the restaurant To Steki in the centre of Chora — the perfect end to a big day of effort on the wall.
Climbing on Anafi
While rock climbing on Anafi is still in its infancy, the island holds huge potential for its Verdon-esque sport climbing. That is to say, the potential for fairly committing top accessed multi pitch sport climbing. The standout feature being the sea cliff under the church at Mount Kalamos. A dramatic 450-metre south facing sea cliff that dominates the eastern end of the island. So far, five routes have been established on the cliff — including two newly equipped sport routes that can be accessed by boat or by a fairly committing rappel from the top of the cliff. Both are equipped with high quality stainless steel resin bolts with attention to sustainable bolting practices. The majority of the bolts are from Greece's very own resident bolt manufacturer: Lappas. (Find route descriptions and topos at the end of the article).
I’ve made two trips to Anafi so far, initially inspired by Mike ‘Twid’ Turner. With enticing tales of the untapped potential for “big wall sea cliff climbing.” Twid had previously visited the island back in November 2003 with a small team on an early scouting trip, looking to confirm rumours from early trad climbing development on the island. That trip was plagued by stormy weather and poor climbing conditions, but during a brief weather window, the team managed to abseil down the top of the Mount Kalamos seacliff and were convinced a return visit would yield adventurous sport climbing.
Eventually, in September 2024, together with Bert Lam, James Handley, Dale Pointon and led by Twid, we spent ten scorching days on Anafi, during which we rap-bolted and climbed a 360-metre line we named "Into The Blue" (350m, 7b). The route offered just a glimpse of the quality to be found on this quartz-rich limestone — a rock type that makes climbing here so unique. Techy and hard to read, the style is yarding on small sharp crimpy edges and negotiating devious pockets; is it a 2 finger pocket or a jug? Who knows...
The experience confirmed it: Anafi holds serious potential for adventurous sport climbing.
For me this was exciting, I have not done much bolting, so the novelty of having just developed a new 12 pitch route was not lost on me. I very much enjoyed the full experience, from the early days of hard grafting in the blazing sun to eventually freeing all the pitches at the end of the trip. The hanging aréte pitch near the top of "Into The Blue" remains one of my favourite pitches of climbing over the the last couple years. I might be biased though...
I returned to Anafi for a second trip in October 2025. Thankful for a milder weather forecast. Twid had assembled a new team, including the serial bolter Andy Long, as well as Michael Kimber and Bob Brewer. Twid had a view to bolting another line to the left hand-side of our previous route; a steep red pillar broken by a big ledge in the middle. Despite this ledge, the route transpired to be largely steeper and more sustained than its neighbouring line. Michael Kimber dubbed this new route "Pilgrims of the Vertical" (250m 7B). An excerpt he found in a tourist leaflet noting the rare ascents by climbers here.
The Adventure by boat
Guidebook Description for Climbing on Mount Kalamos
Getting there:
Fly to Santorini Airport (Greece). Get a Blue Star Ferry from the nearby port to the Isle of Anafi (It is is advisable to take a hire car or scooter).
Season: Probably best in late September to October. Our first trip in September was really hot!
Kit:
16 quickdraws
A Long Cheat draw or Small Clip Stick
80m rope or equivalent half ropes for POTV
Despite bolting, I don't have much info on rapping ITB. I recommend using 50m halfs and bring some spare biners/ mallions (just incase) to equip anchors on the descent. (I will update when I have further information).
Approach:
By land. Approx 1.5 hours if first visit.
Park up at the Monastery Zoodochos Pigi. Follow the well built hiking trail to the Sacred Monastery of Virgin Mary the Kalamiotissa. From here descend steeply to the climbs following a line of cairns (not initially obvious and very rough walking through scree). Attempt to follow the ridge as marked below. Big Cairns at the top of the routes. The cairn by 11 is for Pilgrims of the Vertical, the Cairn by 12 is near the top of "Into the Blue". Into the Blue follows down the corner and pillar just right of the marked point 12 - reference to Andy Long's topos below.
By Sea!
Not possible if weather unstable/ choppy sea... Contact Manolis on (+30)6945486086. He is aware of how to get onto the bottom rungs of Pilgrims of the Vertical. Into the Blue starts approximately 50m right of these rungs, below a left facing corner leading to the obvious terrace (bolts will be very hard to spot by sea and ITB currently has no rungs to aid disembarking). If approaching from your own craft, approach with caution and be aware that the rungs/ bolts are difficult to spot!
Pilgrims of The Vertical (7B/ 6B+ Obligatory, 11 pitches) ***
Into The Blue (7B/ 6B+ Obligatory, 12 pitches) ***
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