Old Man of Hoy. April 2023 - "it can fall over now...!"
- Louis Kennedy
- Nov 12, 2023
- 5 min read
Updated: Jun 5
Climbing the Old Man of Hoy – A Dream Realised
In April 2023, I finally ticked off a climb I’d been dreaming of for years: the Old Man of Hoy. To make it even more special, I was joined by an amazing team—Tim Parkin, Leanne Trendall, Jim Miller, and 16-year-old Duncan Brown. We were incredibly lucky with the weather, experiencing the kind of calm, clear conditions you rarely dare hope for on such an exposed sea stack.
🧗♂️ The Original Route – Old Man of Hoy
First Ascent: 1966 by Chris Bonington, Tom Patey, and Rusty Baillie
Grade: E1 5b (British trad grading)
Length: ~135 meters (3–4 pitches)
Style: Traditional (trad) climbing on vertical sandstone
Rock Type: Devonian red sandstone, often sandy and brittle in places
Route Description:
The Original Route follows a line up the south face of the stack. It features a mix of wide cracks, chimneys, and face climbing with notable exposure and some loose rock, which is typical of sea stacks.
The most famous section is the “Coffin Pitch”, a wide, body-sized chimney that requires bridging and thrutching through an overhanging entrance. It’s named for its claustrophobic, tomb-like feel.
The upper pitches ease off slightly in grade, with enjoyable 4b/4c climbing, leading to an unforgettable summit perched high above the crashing waves.
Tim later wrote a brilliant and heartfelt account of the adventure, capturing both the drama and the joy of the climb. Here’s an excerpt:
“I got a phone call last Saturday, a voice on the other end saying ‘Do you want to climb the Old Man of Hoy!?’… At UK tech 5b it would be harder than any outdoor climbing I’d done so far but Louis looked strong enough to pull me up by hand – what could possibly go wrong?”
The full day included everything from ferry rides and windswept cliff-top hikes to fulmars, awkward off-widths, and a sunset summit. Tim’s vivid description of the Coffin Pitch—a sandy, body-sized chimney—captures just how atmospheric and physical the climb can be:
“…the walls come to surround you completely, a sandy sepulchre that feels too safe to exit, but exit you must on gritty, slopey feet and awkward, elusive handholds.”
Topped off with golden light, a Highland malt, and a long headtorch hike back to the bothy, this was one of those climbs that you remember for a lifetime.
Big thanks to everyone involved—it was a joy to share the experience with such a strong and supportive team. You can read Tim’s full testimonial [here] (link to full text or post).
To book your sea stack adventure or find out more, please contact us via the link below.
Prices start from £250 + expenses (ferry + fuel)
@AMIprofessionals
🧭 What Is the Old Man of Hoy?
Location: Island of Hoy, Orkney Islands, Scotland
Height: 137m (449ft)
Material: Old Red Sandstone (i.e. crumbly and terrifying)
First Climbed: 1966 by Bonington, Patey, Baillie
Route Grade: E1 5b (British trad)
“The stack is eroding every year — it could collapse in a few decades. So if you're thinking about it… maybe don’t wait forever.”— Climber’s folklore
🧗 The 1966 First Ascent: Bonington, Patey & Baillie
The First Ascent of Britain's Wildest Sea Stack
In 1966, three climbers stood beneath a colossal sandstone needle rising from the churning Atlantic off the coast of Orkney. One of them — Chris Bonington — would become a household name. Another — Tom Patey — would become a legend in Scottish climbing lore.
Together with Rusty Baillie, they pioneered the first ascent of the Old Man of Hoy. It was bold, uncharted, and utterly Scottish. As is the nature of UK climbing, this was no bolted sport route. With no detailed topo, no guidebook and only an adventurous attitude to lead the way.
Chris Bonington was still early in his career (relatively speaking...) but already known for his significant alpine achievments and books.
Tom Patey was the beardy philosopher of British climbing — surgeon by day, poet and first ascensionist by weekend.
Rusty Baillie brought a blend of skill and daring that completed the trio.
Their route up the East Face is now considered the "Original Route," and while it's technically moderate by today’s standards, the sheer exposure, loose rock, and weather make it a serious objective.
🧱 Pro tip: Bring big cams and probably an old jacket to shield you from fulmar vomit...
📺 Climbing Goes Live: The 1967 BBC Broadcast
Just a year later, Bonington returned with Joe Brown, Dougal Haston, and others for a live televised ascent.
One of the first times climbing was broadcast live on UK TV.
Viewers watched in awe as climbers dangled above crashing waves in grainy black-and-white.
It made climbing mainstream — for a very brief moment, the nation tuned into the vertical world.
🐦 The Real Crux: Fulmars
Forget the crumbling rock, tides, and stormy Atlantic winds.
Your biggest threat might be...
💥 The Fulmar: Master of Aerial Vomit
Fulmars are seabirds that nest on sea cliffs — including the Old Man. They’re cute. Until they’re not. The best precaution is to speak gently and compliment them. Do not consider this approach or climbing the route if they're nesting (June time) - If they have eggs it isn't fair on the birds to climb and you will get vommed on... Come back later in the summer.
🧪 Defense Mechanism: Projectile vomiting of a noxious, oily bile
🤢 Smell: Think fermented sardines
🧼 Effect: Permanently ruins clothes, and may scar your sense of smell
🧭 Advice: If you see one on the ledge above, duck!
"It hit me square in the chest, soaked through my jacket, and I swear the smell followed me home..."— Unlucky climber, probably still crying in the pub.
🧗 Climbing Summary
Factor | Info |
First Ascent | Bonington, Patey, Baillie (1966) |
Grade | E1 5b |
Length | ~137m, 5-6 pitches |
Rock | Old Red Sandstone |
Danger | Loose blocks, fulmars, exposure |
Best Season | Summer (fewer storms, fewer angry birds) |
🎒 Thinking of Climbing It?
Consider getting in touch for guiding and rates, prices start from £250 + travel expenses.
Respect the locals! Fulmars were here first — and they'll remind you if threatened.
To book your sea stack adventure or find out more, please contact us via the link below.
Prices start from £250 + expenses (ferry + fuel)
@AMIprofessionals
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